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Doug Campeau's Wingward Labradors . . .

Dogfather of Gun Dog Training

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Editor's Note: Mr. Doug Campeau is an internationally known and respected dog training authority. Although he specializes in waterfowl dogs, much of the same training methodology he uses can be applied to your house pet. It's important that our canine companions become good citizens when appearing in public but it's just as important that your favourite pet behave well in the home.
Mr. Campeau comes to SWOBG.com by way of referral from some of the region's top hunters and outdoor business owners. His time and efforts directed toward helping your hunting companion be an asset in the field is much appreicated and we're privileged to have him join us.

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Starting The Force Fetch To Retrieve Program

Well folks it's time to get that young dog up on the table to do the Force Fetch To Retrieve (otherwise known as "old hell month"). If you take your time to do this properly you will be amazed at your dog's sudden confidence and positive attitude at retrieving to hand everything that you send him for. I'm going to do this in stages so that I give everyone time to become confident until each step has been instilled. There are many books and videos on Dog Training in general but very few talk in depth about the problems that you may encounter once you begin the force fetch. There are a few methods that are spoken about in most books, one being the Toe Hitch, another the Ear Pinch method and the Collar Conditioned method. The one that I use on all dogs that go up on the table is the Ear Pinch method because I feel it is the easiest one to reinforce in the field if there is a problem. When timing is everything in training, the average hunter needs to get his message across to the dog quickly to get the job done. The toe hitch is impossible to reinforce in the field, and you have to go to the ear sooner or later anyway in training, so why waste your time. Collar Training or Conditioning is important if you are going to compete in Hunt Tests or Trials, but remember we are training the average Gun Dog and not a weekend competitor. I see so many owners nowadays that think that the Shock Collar is the answer to all of their training problems. The wide variety of collars today can help in many situations in the hands of an experienced trainer to curb unwanted behaviors at a distance. It is however not the training aid for everyone with no experience and may set you back in progress if not used properly.

Hopefully you have your table ready by now so lets get going. Bring your dog to the table on lead and lift him up on it gently. When he is up there he may act very nervous and may even crouch or lay low. Do not allow him to jump off of the table by any means. Sit the dog in the middle of the table and pet him to get him to relax, you may even give him a few pieces of his dog food. Don't be surprised if he doesn't take it from you and eat it because he is now intimidated. Have that eyebolt handy in the ceiling and snap a piece of swing chain to it and allow it to hang down about two feet towards the table. The links on the chain will allow you to move the dog's collar up and down to the height that you require. I always use a double snap on the eyebolt at the dogs collar to give more versatility in heights. The first two or three sessions on the table are only to get his confidence up. Always end each session by feeding his morning or evening meal up there to gain his trust. Most big dogs have good appetites so use that to your advantage in your training. Never allow the dog to get the food until you give him the OK signal at the end of each session. By the third or fourth time up there secure the dog as high to the eyebolt as possible so that he cannot lower his head or pull away from you. Make sure he has enough slack so that he can breathe. Put a leather glove on you right hand and open his mouth with your other hand.


Young Buck learning to hold gloved hand

Place the gloved hand into his mouth gently and close his bottom jaw a bit to see his response. Now if he is like most dogs he will resist this by trying to spit the glove or shake his head from side to side to get this gloved hand out. Whatever you do, stay with it until he settles down for a few seconds, then remove the hand and pet him saying "Good Boy". It won't take long for him to realize that if he stays calm the gloved hand will be removed.

Open his mouth and do this again until he is not fighting you quite as vigorously. Stay calm and don't yell or raise your voice or say too much at this point. It is the action of what you are doing and the body language you use rather than your voice at this time. When you take the gloved hand out, say the word "out" or "leave" at the same time. Lay on loads of praise, and let him know that he is the best dog in the world. After doing this repeatedly for 15 minutes call it quits and give the dog his morning feeding as a reward up there on the table. Set the dish down at the end of the table and only allow him to eat it on command with an OK. Rub his ears gently as he holds the objects so that he gets accustomed to having your hands around his head. Staying calm is very important, or the dog will get very uptight and will lose his focus on his lesson. We are not saying too many commands yet until he understands what we are asking of him. Once he is holding the glove without our hand in it, start moving around a couple of feet to the right and left and tell him to hold always watching that he doesn't try to spit it. Gently raise your hand to him and grab the glove and give him the command out to let go. Again, give him tons of praise on a job well done.


Holding leather glove by itself

When he understands the holding of the glove we need to switch to a paint roller at least nine inches in length and ask him to hold it in the same manner that he held the glove.


Holding paint roller

When he is holding it, tap the ends lightly saying the word "hold" as you tap it. You want to see a conscious effort on the dog's part not to drop the roller even when you tap it on either end. Try to walk back a few feet and now tell him to Hold with a good firm tone.

Using different objects once he understands how to hold

Watch him closely and if he drops it, pick it up and put it back in his mouth and say the word Hold again until you can trust him.


Length of chain with two snaps on each end

When we are training a dog, we never do retrieving at all off the bench, or you will undo everything that you have worked for so far. The above process will take the beginner approximately 1 week to 10 days to complete. Lets work on this stage of training first and we'll move to the next level in approximately 2 weeks.

Second Stage In The Process

This is the second phase of the force to retrieve on the table. Hopefully by now your pooch is relaxed up there, and holding a variety of different objects with no hesitation, and not releasing until you command him to. Keep feeding him up there after each session and he will look forward to his lesson. Up until now we have been prying his mouth open to insert the roller or dowel. Hopefully you have been rubbing his ears and getting him comfortable with your hands around his head.

Bring the collar up as tight as possible to the ceiling so that he cannot lower his head. Make sure that he can breathe properly and that he is in the sit position facing straight on to you with his head up as high as possible. Inside the dogs ear there is a spot that has very little hair on it and that is where we will give a light pinch with our thumbnail. Timing is important here when we go to pinch the ear. Stay very calm when you do this or your anxiety will transfer to your pupil. Take a dowel with duct tape wrapped around it about a half of an inch in diameter and ten inches in length. The tape makes the dowel easier to hold, and it won’t slide so easily on the dog’s hard teeth. Hold the dowel with your right hand and have him hold it like he has all the other objects. While he is holding it rub his ears vigorously and say good boy. Now take it out, and with your right hand bring it up and rest the dowel gently against his muzzle. If he tries to stand make him sit back down before you continue. Bring your left hand up to his right ear and find the area that has no hair up high in the ear. As you pinch gently with your thumbnail, push the dowel firmly against his teeth and say the word Fetch. Some dogs will get frightened and want to clam up when they feel the pinch stimulation. Just stay calm and as I said don’t pinch too hard at first. The most important thing is to get the dog to open his mouth wide enough to accept the small dowel and immediately stop the pinch. Once he has the idea that as soon as he has this thing in his mouth he gets praise and no pinch discomfort. As soon as we can trust him to grab the dowel we can start to give him more slack on the chain. We have to get our timing down pat and pinch the ear at the same time that we offer the dowel to him. Once he is actually grabbing the object and making a conscious effort to hold it, we are ready to start traveling on the table from the right to the left. Start holding the dowel a little further away from his mouth each session only a couple of inches or so. As you pinch the ear say fetch to get the desired response, and as the dog takes the dowel release the pinch immediately, but make sure that he holds it. Allow him to hold it for at least ten seconds at first and then keep adding a little distance for him to reach. Sooner than you think your dog will be moving a few feet to grab the object from your hand. This is when you will have to hook him to the cable to get the distance required. Remember to watch that he doesn’t get sloppy on his hold and make him sit as soon as he gets back to the centre of the table. I can’t express how important it is to really praise your dog when he does well. Once you are happy with that session, feed the dog up there as his reward.

This part of the training is pretty boring for both you and the dog but believe me it needs to be done. Try to pick up some speed as you both become more accustomed to the routine. We are looking for the dog to start reaching for the object on the table and this is where most of the refusals begin. The transition of taking it from your hand is one thing but when we take the hand away and ask him to pick it up from the table the dog usually tries to bail out and refuse to grab the dowel. Just lift the object slightly and keep the ear pinch on until he grabs it firmly.

Keep working on this until the dog becomes used to grabbing off the table surface and we will start to mix the objects up that he will pick up as we go into the next phase.

3rd In The Series

Now that your dog is picking up objects off of the table consistently and returning to the middle and sitting and holding until commanded to release, you are well on your way. Next thing you want to do is to place the object to the right about six feet from the dog and command him to fetch with your hand in his collar but start backing off on the pinch. Having your hand this close will allow you to reinforce the fetch command if you get a refusal. Enthusiasm here in your voice will take you a long way when doing this type of training.



Once he is holding all of these different objects, start to use you training dummies and dead fowls.



I prefer to use the Avery brand because they are the easiest for a dog to grab and hold consistently with very little sloppiness on the hold, because of their firmness and the hex design.



As soon as he is picking up all of these objects, you have to move on to birds on the table. We will use only thawed out pigeons at first because of the size of the bird, to make it easier for you and the dog. Remember to only start this if the dog is consistent on retrieving from the table any object that you send him for without hesitation and holding firmly until told to release. Sit him down in the middle of the table and tie him up short the first time that you ask him to hold a bird. It is like going back to square one for a short time. Chances are that when you started force fetch the dog wasn't retrieving to hand so lets take small steps here and see what we have accomplished so far. I like to take a fresh thawed out pigeon and wrap duct tape around the wings to hold the body firm, much like a bumper.



I've seen many a dog refuse to take a pigeon from my hand at first so I open the dog's mouth and place the bird in, and command the dog to hold. If he tries to spit or drop the bird I now have a built in backup plan that I did not have before, and that is the ear pinch. The point here is to show the dog that he must hold everything firmly and not try to avoid the command. Allow him to hold the bird longer and longer until you can leave him up there holding it as you walk away a short distance from him. Always keep the dog in sight to avoid any accidents if he tries to jump off the table. As you return to the dog, make sure that he continues to hold right up until you ask him to release. Watch out for the dog that starts to anticipate your hand around his mouth and starts to release too early. This will start to deteriorate a good solid delivery in the field. Leave the tape on the bird and once he is holding and grabbing it well, start making him travel for it further and further, just like he did for all of the other objects. Now as he sits in the middle of the table, place the bird about six feet away to the right then go back and face the dog. As you command him to fetch, use some body language here and point to the bird with your right hand. If he balks stay calm and put your hand on the bird and lightly pinch the ear. Hopefully he will pick the bird up firmly with no hesitation and return to the middle of the table and sit. If you have done all of the other steps properly this drill really should go smoothly. If you have difficulty, back up to the previous lesson. Always be sure to have the dog connected to the upper cable when doing this lesson of moving up and down the table, to pick up what you have sent him for. If he is successful at jumping off of the table to avoid the command, then you are training backward, and the dog will always be looking for a way to avoid situations that he doesn't like. Start sending the dog further and further down the table to retrieve the bird and use a lot of enthusiasm in your voice to get him to pick up speed going to the bird. This is where we are going to start placing a pigeon and one other object next to each other to the right of the dog, about a foot from the end of the table. When we send him it doesn't matter which one that he picks up first as long as we get a good solid delivery before sending him for the next object. The dog may refuse to pick up the object after picking up the bird, but remember that this is the best place to get a refusal because your in a great position to quickly correct him for doing so. You just have to show him that he cannot ignore or blink the other object, and must go back and complete all the retrieves with no hesitation. As he gets better and more consistent, start adding more birds that are freshly thawed out or even live shackled birds. I always use everything that he may encounter in the field on any given hunt, even rabbits if I am planning on using this dog for hunting them. The table will be your best tool to go back to and fix retrieving problems that may arise in the future.

Once you are confident with his table retrieving it is time to take the dog to the floor in front of the bench and make him sit at heel position with a dragline and a choker on him for control. Take a bumper or dowel with your free hand and put your other hand through the dog's collar and ask him to fetch as you offer him the object and he should take it without any trouble. Once he has it in his mouth keep him at the heel position and keep his head up high and pet him as he is sitting there next to you holding firmly. Now grab the object and give the out command, put your hand through the collar and be ready to pinch the ear if he tries to drop the object. We have to get the dog to realize that just because we are not on the table anymore that we must have the same manners on the ground with zero tolerance for sloppiness or any refusal. This is totally a new position for him because he has been facing you all of this time. Ask him to heel with the object in his mouth for a few feet and then ask him to sit and hold. Do this drill further and further having him sit a few times with it in his mouth. Take it from him from time to time then ask him to take it from you and hold.



This drill will make him realize that the old days of running around and doing his own thing are a thing of the past. This floor drill should be as near the training bench as possible just in case things start to go downhill. We can start moving the dog outside for training after we get him retrieving a thrown dummy from a few feet away inside. Up until now for the past few weeks we have not thrown anything for the dog to retrieve. Sit the dog at heel with the drag rope and choker on and throw the bumper ten feet in front of you and command the dog to fetch it. As he picks it up, have him return to the front or heel position and sit down. Hopefully he holds the object firmly until you slowly grab it and give him the release command. If all goes well maybe you just got your first retrieve to hand for the first time ever.



Keeping that drag rope on at all times is a must now when you train him out in the field or the yard. It only has to be about fifteen feet long or so to be effective for controlling the dog from a short distance. I know that this part of training is tedious and sometimes boring for both of you, but the end result is well worth the effort. Your dog will do what maybe only few other dogs can do out there in the field, and that is retrieve to hand proudly anything that you or your buddies have shot. Next lesson we will really get going on retrieving and tracking wounded game out in the field. Once your dog is confident at retrieving everything to hand from land and water, it opens up so many other training possibilities for future dog work.

Good Hunting-----Doug Campeau

Fourth step to Force Retrieve For Gundogs

Let's assume that if you are still with me that your dog has become totally crazy about fetching from short distances both dummies and dead birds with no hesitation. It's time to move outdoors to extend everything that we have accomplished thus far inside. We are always going to use this dragline of about 15 feet until we can totally trust the dog to come to heel every time he makes a retrieve.

Nolan using duck call to get Hustler's attention before the throw

Start by airing him before you begin the heeling drill. Now heel him without a dummy and then with one in his mouth. Start and stop frequently and be sure that the dog sits as soon as you stop and holds the object firmly. If the dog gets sloppy or starts to mouth or play with the object, deal with this right away by heeling him up and grabbing his ear giving him a good firm pinch as you throw the dummy about ten feet while keeping the drag rope in your other hand.


Hustler marking fall of with gunfire (Note dragrope tied to unseen fencepost to teach steadiness)

Take it from him and toss it a few feet and command fetch or his name, whatever signal you will use when hunting to release the dog as he leaves your side for the retrieve. As the dog is picking up the object, step back a few feet and command heel as he returns to you to the heel position and sits at your left side. If he is doing well start throwing the bumper a little further each time you take him out for a session.


50 yard retrieve with Nolan at far corner on opposite side of fence.

By the fourth or fifth time out, you should be throwing the bumper or bird as least 50 to 80 feet (not yards) on short grass. We don't want to get into an extended hunt at this stage in heavy cover, this is strictly singles thrown by you in different directions on flat ground. Remember that you and your dog are becoming a team and he now realizes the object is yours and he is being asked to retrieve it for you. It's important that there are no distractions so the dog can stay focused on the exercise. These sessions are only going to last about 15 to 20 minutes which adds up to 15 to 20 retrieves in a good honest session. Allow the dog to take a drink, especially if it is warmer weather.

This is where we are going to employ someone to throw the birds or bumpers for us at further distances. The dog is going to be a little confused at first because of the distraction of another person out there. It might be a good idea to find a place that has a fence, and have your helper throw from the other side onto your side. Keep this distance short at first and extend only if things are going well. Stay away from the water retrieves right now for the next little while until we are confident in the dog's ability to carry all objects firmly to the heel position. Start making the dog stay longer and longer before you release him for the retrieve. Keep in mind that he has to focus on where the bird fell, so send him before he tosses his head in another direction. The dog will learn to focus more and more on that fall location as time goes on. Start having your helper use a duck call to get the dog's attention before he throws the bird. This gets a young dog enthused about locking into the call in anticipation of the thrown object. Start putting duck decoys on the grass and walk your dog through them to get him used to them.

Hustler picking up bird cleanly

If he sniffs too long or tries to grab one, tell him to leave it as you give a good hard correction on lead. Now step back and throw a bird into the decoys and command the dog to fetch it up. If all goes well, throw it through the decoys to the other side, so that he now travels right through them to get the bird and returns through them with it.


Good direct return

You can start using the starter pistol around your dog as long as he is not gun sensitive. Have the dog at heel (on a drag rope of course) with your primer pistol in your right hand. Have a few decoys spread out about thirty feet from you and be sure that they are spread far apart. Have your partner blow his call as he throws the bird. Shoot at the bird at the top of the arc and send the dog a few seconds after it hits the ground.


Good firm hold of drake mallard ( use breasted out ducks from previous hunts and use Duct tape to wrap the chest nice and tight)

Here is the scenario that we have been working so hard for. The dog hears the duck call, looks out front and sees the bird in the air as you shoot it. He is sent on command through the decoys and picks up the bird cleanly, returns back through the decoys and comes to heel position holding the bird firmly prouder than a peacock. Dogs from six months to ten months old should be able to grasp this training. The only place not to train is in your own yard. That is a definite no no. Load the dog up and go anywhere but his leisure or play area.


Hustler says, (Hey guys let's do that again)

The hard boring work is behind you now, and from here on in training will be a lot more enjoyable because of this new control that you have. I know that it is only the start but the foundation is good and strong and can now support the dog that we will continue to build in future articles.

So long for now------------Doug Campeau

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Force Fetch to Retrieve

In my last two articles we talked about buying and starting to train that new pup. His obedience training is an important part of his daily routine around the house and yard. Barking excessively or jumping on anyone is definitely a No No. Remember that bad behaviors only get more ingrained if not dealt with effectively when they first start to occur. I hear people using the same old excuses all the time, that pup is still too young to understand what is expected of him and I'm here to tell everyone, that is not the case. Any pup that is anywhere from eight weeks to sixteen weeks of age can be taught not to nip at hands or jump up on the people in your home or yard. Over half the people think that this cannot be dealt with until pup is much older and nothing can be further from the truth. Use a calm tone of voice when speaking to a young dog or you will have to yell at him later to get the same response. By the time that pup is six months old, he or she should be proficient at commands such as heel on lead (no pulling) sit (even if a cat walks by) stay (wherever you place him) come (Immediately) and kennel up (into or, onto anything you tell him).

All pups go through a teething stage between four to six months of age. During this time you may even find a few teeth lying around, and the last teeth to come in are his top and bottom canines. It is not uncommon for pup to start mouthing dummies when retrieving because of the new things going on in his mouth. Use soft canvas dummies at this time until all of his new teeth are in, and then go back to the harder ones later. Hopefully you have been training with all kinds of birds up until now, mostly thawed out ducks, pheasants, pigeons and even goose wings tied to heavier objects. I usually use birds about every fourth or fifth training session. If you are going to use birds in a session use them at the end of that session, after you have used bumpers or donkens first. Your pup will be less apt to ignore the bumpers and look only for the birds, which is the instinctive thing for him to do. After all you did buy a hunting dog and he should be birdy, so engineer your training so that you get the most out of each session and end it on a good note. Think out each situation before you start training and have a small plan of what you are trying to get the dog to do on that particular day (i.e. retrieve through decoys on land and then water, or sitting in a flat bottom boat at the water's edge with your dog next to you and an assistant throwing dummies or dead birds into the decoys as you shoot a few blank shots from your primer pistol and then send the pup). Maybe it is at this point that you want to do the Force To Retrieve lessons because your dog is dumping everything at your feet or even further away. Any dog worth their salt should go through this training to give them the best foundation for future learning and problem solving. Most people ask "why do I have to put my dog through this if he is a retriever, should he not do this naturally?" While it is gratifying to watch a seven week old pup go out and pick up a tossed bumper or pigeon and return it naturally to hand, remember that you are seeing the raw retrieving traits that all of his ancestors have given him. It is instinctive for these dogs to pick up anything that is not nailed down and to carry it in their mouths. Just because they bring it to you now, doesn't mean that they will retrieve to hand as they get older and they may want to play catch me games when they realize that they can outrun you. We talked about not allowing your pup to have toys in the first article, and this is precisely why. Toys cause a young dog to headshake everything in his mouth especially soft plush toys that are much like a bird. He thinks that all these nice toys are his and no one else can have them, so how are you going to tell him that the nice bird you just shot is yours. He has to learn that what he picks up in his mouth belongs to you, and whether it is a bird, bumper, or our best pair of slippers, he must bring them to us willingly upon command, at which time you will administer a "Good Boy" pat on the head. Force Retrieve training is done usually when the pup is at least seven to eight months old. It will toughen up a soft dog and soften up the tough dog.

Pictured above: L to R -- Bobbie, Jade and 9 month old Abby holding birds that 13 year old Nolan Campeau shot on opening day 2009

Every dog learns how to problem solve and gains confidence daily as he learns how to respond to different stimulus on the training table. This table should be about ten to twelve feet long, and should be about waist high. The width should be at least thirty inches to allow the dog room to turn around. I always place my bench against a wall with at least one end closed so that the dog cannot bail out of the back or side. The last thing that is very important is to install a good solid cable about thirty two inches above the centre of the table and about 15 inches in from the front edge. If you have a ceiling above the bench be sure to install a good size eye hook at the centre of the bench and it will come in handy in securing the dog when he is first up there.
Before you start your bench training there are a few things that need to be mentioned. All of the objects need to be foreign to him on the table for the first part of the training and the reason is simple. This is a force fetch table and when you are forcing him to hold using ear pinch stimulation you don't want the discomfort to be associated with bumpers or birds. Never pinch the ear of a dog until he totally understands what the meaning of hold is. Always lift the dog up onto the table if you are physically able, or otherwise put a chair next to it so he can step up and down.

Pictured above: 9 month old Abby holding a blue wing teal

In the last thirty-five plus years I have worked with countless number of dogs of all hunting breeds on the training bench and I have never seen two exactly the same in temperament or personality. You have to find what makes your dog tick and push the proper buttons to get the best result. Flexibility in training is so important and if you cannot read your dog properly get to someone who can steer you in the right direction. This table training will make your dog much more confident in everything that he does, and at the end of the training your dog will be retrieving with purpose on command anything that you tell him to. While this training is being done the dog will not get any retrieving off of the bench or outside until he has grasped the concept of fetch, deliver, and hold. Obedience work on and off lead can be done outside to mix up the training regimen. Remember that we are training a gundog and a lot of this training is done separately much like building a house. When we start to put all the lessons together at the proper time, what emerges is a confident hunting buddy that is ready for some action. The only thing you need to do now is give this dog some good hunting experience, and that my friends cannot be taught. He will come out of water holding that big Greenhead that you dumped into the cattails and proudly deliver it to hand, not releasing it until told to do so. The best thing is that all he expects from you is a "good boy" and the chance to do it all over again.

Pictured above: 11 month old Chance holding his first woody


Pictured above are some of the tools used in force fetch training

In the next article we will talk more on the subject of force fetch to retrieve and steadiness to the gun, and explain some of the problems and solutions that most people encounter when trying this for the first time. Bye for now and Good Hunting .

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Making that tough choice . . . which puppy?

When I pick out a puppy there are a few things that I definitely need to see before I make a final decision. Hopefully you have asked all the right questions of the breeder and chose a pup from bloodlines that are proven in the field. I always like to take a duck wing, or better yet a dead or live pigeon along with me when I go to pick out that pup. I rarely make that pick of the litter before the pup is at least six to seven weeks old. Bear in mind that the true personality is just starting to come out, and you should take each puppy out individually.

You need a true perspective of how bold or cautious he will be without littermates around to distract him. I usually carry the pup away to a separate location and get down to his level to pet him and see what his response will be when I take the duck wing from my pocket and show it to him. I assume that the breeder will have exposed these guys to feathers by now, and you want a pup that has a high prey drive. Boldness, and a keen eye are as important as an alert tail wagger when I get down to his level. Toss the bird wing about ten to fifteen feet at first and see how he goes out to it, picks it up, and returns it. His birdiness and willingness to carry are the most important things that you are looking for at this point. Never fool with a pup if he shows very little interest in feathers, just put him back and choose the one that meets your standards. Actually the whole litter should show bird interest if the bloodline is there.

So now the day has come to bring your new hunting buddy home, preferably at the age of seven weeks old. One of the most important things is not to push the pup too hard, and allow him or her time to settle into his new digs. Remember that you have to teach him the rules of the house and yard, and get his daily routine down pat (crate or kennel training, feeding schedule, bathroom time and playtime). When you get pup home be sure to continue his retrieving on land and in shallow water that is warm enough. Use small ditches and small creeks to get him accustomed to getting wet, and walk with him through these areas to get his confidence up.


4 month old puppy sniffing first bird on dog stand

As he gets older, encourage him to swim in deeper water that is calm. Lakes have scared off many pups, as a wave may hit them at the wrong time. Remember that you want to build confidence and desire to retrieve dummies and birds from land and also water. Place a dozen duck decoys on the lawn and have pup walk through them on lead with you, telling him to leave it if he reaches for one. Have him retrieve through the decoys a couple of times so that he learns that they will not harm him. The last thing that you want is for pup to become decoy shy, so use short cords on those decoys the first time he retrieves in shallow water. Keep them spaced out from each other as far as possible, to allow a lot of room for pup to maneuver in the water through the decoys. I always like to train with a short drag rope tied to his regular collar. This gives me more control if he decides not to obey certain commands, especially the “here” or “come” commands. Try to get him retrieving dead pigeons through the decoys on land and water with that short drag rope on.


puppy making a dead bird retrieve

Get your waders on so that you can get in the water with him if need be. As pup grows, you can start using larger dummies and ducks, throwing or hiding them in cover, and asking pup to hunt them up. Learning to use his nose and gain confidence is so important, especially when tracking down that wounded bird that has eluded you, and you have no idea as to it’s whereabouts.


puppy making a bumper retrieve through decoys

Remember that we are building a true Gundog, one that not only sits quietly in your blind or boat until the shooting is done, but also one that tracks that cripple down and brings it to hand when sent. There is nothing more wasteful than a person hunting waterfowl with no dog at all, and losing so many birds. A good dog is a must nowadays, especially with the use of steel shot, and the heavy cover in most marshes. Above all, have fun training this dog, and treat him with kindness and respect and he will show you how much heart he has when the going gets tough. Always train with excitement in your voice and good body language (hand clapping, moving your feet, encouraging pup with ‘‘good boy’’). Too many dog owners are boring trainers that all too often lack enthusiasm and loose the dog’s attention.


pupply making retrieve to hand (note drag rope)

When you are training, always expose that young dog to things that will be encountered in a day afield. Don’t wait to train your dog on opening day in the marsh or at the blind, because if things go wrong it is rarely the dog’s fault. If you plan on using your young dog for the early goose season (especially on land) you may be heading for trouble. Remember that if he gets tangled up with a wounded gander the first time out, he could become bird shy, so why take a chance. You should have worked this pup on geese already to see if he can even handle one. It would be wise to wait until pup is old enough and has had a few duck hunts under his belt and has been force fetched to retrieve before tackling those big honkers.

In the next article we will be discussing force fetch to retrieve, which is a must in rounding out this dog’s early training. Good Hunting.

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Knowing what you want in a puppy

    Well I guess it's an opportunity to throw my hat into the ring on the subject of dog training and selecting a good hunting dog. Hi-I'm Doug Campeau and I would like to talk to you a bit about selecting and then training a really good hunting partner whether it is upland or waterfowl. I come from a family of nine children, myself being the fourth oldest. My father and older brother hunted a lot of pheasants & rabbits, and I was always by their side busting cover to get that wild old rooster or bunny to show himself. I guess I'll never forget dad shooting 3 roosters in about 6 seconds and brother Bob looking on in shock as he didn't even fire a shot with the old Cooey single. Wild birds were everywhere back then, and most people needed a good bird dog not only to flush them, but also track and retrieve the running cripples. We all have fond memories of good hunts but my fondest memories are usually about real good honest dog work that produces game for the table. We always had dogs that hunted for us but they had very little formal training.

I started working and training beagle hounds around 1968, and even ran a few in Field Trials in the early 70's. I had a great time hunting pheasants and rabbits with those hounds, but I needed a dog that could retrieve all of my game from land and water. In 1974 I got my first black lab named Coal for the huge price of $50.00. Since old Coal, I've owned and trained many waterfowl and a few upland dogs. Every dog I have worked with has taught me more about dog behavior and certain methods of training. After Breeding, judging, and training countless dogs of different breeds, I've found out that every one of them have different personalities, much like people. Getting the proper breed for you and your family is an important decision. Ask yourself honestly (What am I looking for in a dog?) at my kennel Wingward Labradors near Essex, I meet many people that do not really know what they are looking for in a good gun dog. Bloodlines are a very important part of making the right choice. Some of the questions I ask people are.....

• 1) What are you hunting with this dog? (upland or waterfowl)
• 2) Will the dog be in the house or is it a kennel dog?
• 3) What sex\price range?
• 4) Are you willing to accept help in training this dog as he gets older.
• 5) Do you have children and will this dog be their pet also?

If you are trying to get a dog to satisfy the whole family, there are a few ground rules that every one needs to realize. Complaints of dogs jumping up on people, counter tops, tables, chewing expensive items, are all too common. Unfortunately some think that this behavior is normal and that they will magically grow out of it some day. Remember that if there are 4 to 5 people in the house, this only adds to the confusion in training unless Mom and Dad set good rules and boundaries. Usually if people have children that are well behaved, they want their dog to listen the same way. All family members may have a hand in training the pup as long as Mom and Dad are supervising. Remember that it is much easier to load in the proper information to this little computer (with 4 legs and a tail) than to try and delete things he/she should not have learned.

Bringing a pup home at 7 weeks of age and putting him into his new outdoor kennel where he can not learn any bad habits is the ideal situation. I keep having to remind myself that this is 2009 and 80 to 90% of dog owners have their dogs in the home. Believe me when I say it would be easier on you (the hunter) to buy Mom and the kids a small breed of dog for the house, while you and your new hunting buddy get on to serious dog training. Most guys are out voted by the rest of the family and have to share the pooch. This is what I need to talk to most people about. How do we get this pup to become a great asset afield, and one that will meet the needs of the rest of the family members.
Here are a few ground rules to follow . . .

• 1) Crate train (stops accidents in house)
• 2) No toys. (That one gets a stir)
• 3) Limited treats. (No bartering)
• 4) Set boundaries. (Pup does not get whole house)
• 5) Do not allow jumping up on people or biting hands.
• 6) Set up a regular feeding schedule (No grazing)

Remember this is only framework to get you started in purchasing and getting you through the first few weeks of the puppy at home. In the next article we will discuss how to start your dog on birds, introduction to water, gunfire, and the good old drag rope. So long for now.

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